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Friday, November 20, 2009

Simple Life in Japan

It was the year 1993, I was in Japan despite not having an interest or any knowledge of the language or culture prior to arriving as a 20-year-old squid in Uncle Sam's Navy.

On a good day back then, I would knock off work around 4:30pm, have dinner at the on base McDonalds then work out at the on base gym, then go to the calling center to call family and friends back home. Some variations to this would be do laundry or go out in town or Club Alliance (aka The "A" Club) at the old main gate after the gym for dinner instead of eating at McDonalds. Why would I eat then work out? I was not big into cardio-vascular back then or needed to be. I would lift since I wasn't too far removed from high school.

One distinct memory of those days was the video that played on the TV in the gym of Phil Collins. With today's technology, those memories can be accessed without having to hunt for an obscure video.

Today's clip is of Phil Collins and his "Serious Band" performing a tune of his 1984 album, "No Jacket Required", "Inside Out".


The Divine Wind Vault
http://divinewindvault.blogspot.com
(C)2006-09

Saturday, November 14, 2009

Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan (Golden Week 2006)

Golden Week, a cluster of Japanese holidays beginning at the end of April and continuing throughout the first week of May, is like a double-edged sword since everyone in Japan has time off but traveling at this time is terrible due to destinations being crowded, traffic (it's bad enough in Japan) and air fare, lodging, etc. is even more expensive. But, we chose to travel at this time but would leave a few days before it started and in doing so, we beat the crowds and paid reasonable rates on air fare and lodging.

Day #1- Tokyo's Haneda Airport to Sapporo
After arriving in Sapporo, we took a bus to our hotel, ANA Hotel (part of the All Nippon Airways family). Since it was before check-in time, we left our luggage at the cloak and walked to the Sapporo Beer Museum for lunch. Sapporo Beer is a popular Japanese beer in the US but the Sapporo Beer in US is made by a brewery in Canada. Anyway, at the museum was a famous restaurant that serves a signature dish to Hokkaido, lamb. At our table, we prepared the lamb and vegetables and drank beer out of tall steins. The meal was excellent and is a must on anyone's trip to Sapporo. However, I suggest eating at this place at the end of your travel in Sapporo since one set of the clothes that we brought smelled like BBQ.

Afterwards, we toured the beer museum which was established in the late 1800's (Japan's Meiji era). It was interesting to see the advertisements of the different eras and the different beer bottles. Before leaving the museum, we sampled different kinds of beer that are found only in Hokkaido. (those in Tokyo can't find the specialty beers that we sampled).

By the time we finished visiting the museum, we returned to our hotel and checked-in. After freshing up, we went out in search of a good restaurant for some good Hokkaido food. We found a sushi restaurant and had some excellent crab sushi and boiled crab. (crab and lamb is very abundant and popular in Hokkaido). We also and a variety of sashimi (raw seafood without the rice) and a tofu salad.

Later, we made our way to the largest entertainment district north of Tokyo, Susukino. This district is very lively and picturesque. Here, we visited a very popular alley of ramen restaurants. Ramen is a Chinese dish of noodles in a broth. People of Sapporo claim that their city was the first place to serve this dish in Japan. In the US, you can find cup of noodles and prepared in the microwave. I recommend getting a real meal of ramen if given the chance.

We finished up our first day in Sapporo by visiting the Sapporo Tower. Similar to the Tokyo Tower, this tower has many radio and TV antennas on it and a big clock (Tokyo Tower does not).

Day #2- Otaru, Hokkaido and more of Sapporo
Otaru, a town about an hour by train away from Sapporo is famous for it scenery, landmark of original buildings from when the town was first established in the late 1800's. Although it was May, there was still snow on the ground in the shaded areas. This town has many alleys where water from the nearby mountains flows. The alleys were very active of melting snow rushing down stream. Many of the landmarks had descriptions up in four languages (Japanese, English, Korean and Russian). Russia is close to Japan with Hokkaido being the closest. Not too many foreigners are in Hokkaido in comparison to the Tokyo area but when I did see a foreigner, in most cases they were Russian. After seeing the sights, we had a great sushi lunch (I can eat sushi 3 times a day!).

A half day is all you need for Otaru, so we returned to Sapporo and saw the various sights. We visited the former Hokkaiko government office which was modeled after the old Mass. state house. In the late 1800's this building was the largest building in Japan. Next to the main Sapporo train station in the JR Tower. At the top of this tower, you can see all of Sapporo City and the Sapporo Tower.

After catching the excellent views of Sapporo from the JR Tower, we called it a day.

Day #3- Sapporo's Fish Market, Dr. Clark Museum/Statue and Sapporo Dome/Japanese Baseball game
The most famous fish market in Japan is the Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo. However, Sapporo's fish market is probably as good as the one in Tokyo since Hokkaido is so abundant in fresh seafood. We visited this place and bought some tuna and had it sent to my mother-in-law in Tokyo.

Afterwards, we went to the outskirts of Sapporo and visited the Dr. Clark museum and statue. Dr. Clark was an American professor who taught at Hokkaido University. He was famous for his quote, "Boys, be ambitious." Here, we had lunch. We sauteed fresh seafood at our table.

Later in the day, we visited the Sapporo Dome (opened in 2001). This dome is the home of the local pro soccer team and the Nippon Ham Fighters pro baseball team. Since I have never seen a Japanese baseball game and since there was a game that evening, we decided to watch the game. After visiting the dome's trophy room (pictures and models of the famous performers who have been to the Sapporo Dome), we killed some time at a local shopping mall and returned to the dome and watched the Seibu Lions from Saitama take on the Nippon Ham Fighters. The Fighters have the famous player, Shinjo who also played in the US for the Mets and San Fran Giants. While we were in Sapporo he announced that he was retiring at the end of this season. Anyway, the crowd was light due to the holidays, but the game was fun. Japanese fans are very vocal and noisy throughtout the game but in a poliet and organized fashion. One team's fans will cheer wildly for the top part of the inning and the other team will do the same the bottom part of the inning. We left the game at the 7th inning and returned to Susukino and had dinner at the famous Ramen alley. Ramen is tradionally spicy but the cook wisely toned it down a notch for me since many foreigners visit this place. The place was small and the game that we left was still in progress on the TV. But for whatever reason, baseball games are not televised after 9PM for the rest of the prime time TV programming. (This would drive me crazy if I was a big fan of baseball). The Kimchi Ramen dish that I had was great and plenty hot eventhough the cook toned it down.

We took a stroll through Susukino and then called it a day.

Day #4- Hokkaido University, Okurayama Ski Jump, Winter Sports Museum
Hokkaido University is a very beautiful and picturesque site and reminded me of the local university in my hometown, Furman. Spacious, lots of vegetation, and big western-style buildings. After visiting this place, we went to a restaurant that served "Hokkaido curry soup". Japanese curry is taken from the curry of India but is thicker and poured over rice. The Hokkaido version is a combinaton of the two.

Later in the day, we went to Okurayama Ski Jump where Olympic events took place back in 1972. Near the ski jump is a winter sports museum where lots of memoribillia is on display from the 1972 Olympic games and the other sporting events that have taken place.

We then returned to the Sapporo airport and caught our flight back to Tokyo with lots of great memories and pictures and stories to tell of Japan's most northern island.

The Divine Wind Vault
http://divinewindvault.blogspot.com
(C)2006-09

Why they eat Cow tongue and cow's tail?


Monday, November 06, 2006

This past weekend, we did a day trip to Sendai and before I forget the things that I learned from this trip, here goes:

1- Why they eat Cow tongue and cow's tail?

After WWII, the Tohoku region was the last region to be rebuilt from the war-torn bombings that Japan received and for whatever reason, was a low priority. Of course, Nagasaki and Hiroshima were tops on the list, as for Tokyo and other cities that took on all of the bombing.

With MacArthur at the helm, and Roosevelt`s "Ronins" by his side, Japan made the transition from a defeated, war-torn nation, to the economic power that it is today. But back in those early days, the poor people of Tohoku had to survive on anything that they could get their hands on. As the occupants of Japan were not keen on eating cow tongue and the cow`s tail, this is what the local people survived on.

Aside from the unusual parts of the cow that are popular in Sendai, Kamaboko is also popular there. I remember back in my Navy days, returning to the base in Yokosuka after a long night of singing and dancing up in Roppongi. I would have the munchies and outside of the main gate was a 7-eleven "konbeni". So, I would stop by and grab a few sticks of kamaboko and scarf it down as I made the mile trek back to my ship. The sight of me walking down the road all hung over and eating a stick of kamaboko with backpack full of empty bottles of cheap wine bought the previous evening must be amusing.

Another interesting dish eaten in Sendai was whale.

2- Tohoku-ben

Tohoku-ben is the regional dialect spoken amongst the locals of this region. Japanese is difficult enough not to throw in the regional dialects. Anyway, the shortest conversation in Japan is when a mother in Sendai tells her child to eat something. It goes like this:

Mother- Ke.

Child- Ku.

In Tokyo, it would go like this:

Mother- Tabenasai.

Child- Hai, tabete imasu.

English:

Mother- Eat (command form)

Child- Yes, I'm eating.

3- One interesting thing about this day trip was where we ate lunch. Around lunch time, we toured the local fish market. Every Japanese town near the sea has one, and for some reason, foreigners love going there. Tsukiji`s fish market in Tokyo is always swarming with foreigners the times that I`ve been there. Anyway, in Sendai, we bought some of the local seafood and ate it with the rice and miso soup that was provided by the staff. We ate a few feet from a shop owners refridgerated display. Customers would walk by and see a group of people eating some of the local goods. Not a bad way to get people to buy your stuff!

Today's picture was taken on the platform of Sendai Station.

The Divine Wind Vault
http://divinewindvault.blogspot.com
(C)2006-09

Budget Travel in Japan



I was recently asked by a panel of non-Japanese travelers about the most cost effective travel in Japan.

Since I will be doing this for the first time next week, I can`t be certain from first-hand experience but I would say capsule hotels are the most cost effective way to travel in Japan on a budget. The price per night is around US$40. You`re space is cramped like it would be if you were staying on a ship. The one that I will be staying in is in the basement of a regular hotel. I was informed that my cell phone will not work inside my casule. The bath is a public bath which is common in Japan. Aside from a small bed, I will have a little desk with a PC and Internet access. Upstairs I will be provided breakfast in the morning.

This type of lodging was featured in a recent TV program Quest- CNN Business Traveler when the host traveled to Osaka. He was able to travel on a budget of about US$200 a day in Osaka mainly because his lodging was a capsule hotel. Of course, his mode of travel was by train and subway and he did have a business lunch in a traditional Japanese restaurant. He was even shown eating at a ramen shop for far less than the business lunch. Once other thing that he did was rent out some temporary office space and pay for printing out some documents. However, he would have exceeded his US$200 a day budget by doing the same thing in Tokyo.

Earlier this month, I traveled to Hiroshima and stayed in a business hotel. It was a package deal in the amount of US$250 (total) including round trip air fare from Tokyo`s Haneda airport and two nights in Hiroshima`s downtown area. Sometimes this also includes a breakfast buffet.

One thing to keep in mind is that if you are staying in Tokyo, these kind of low-budget deals are no where to be found. I heard of a guy who traveled from Kyushu to Tokyo to take his family to Disney Sea and he remarked that this trip was nearly as much as taking his family to Hawaii.

Recap:

In case you are in the "Land of the Rising Sun", here are a few things to consider:

Lodging- Capsule Hotels are a stack of three bunks similar to what you would find on a ship. Bunks sleep one person and have a small LCD that can pick-up local TV channels. Cost per night was about US$40. Showers are Japanese style where you wash down with soap then bath in a community area.

Dining- Ramen shops are a dime a dozen near train stations. The fast food chain, Yoshinoya sells beef bowls and I recommend it. The sushi chain, Kappa Sushi sells plates that are brought to you on a conveyor for about US$1. Japan is know as convienence store heaven and a wide variety of food is available at an affordable price.

Transportation- Trains and subways are abundant in the metropolis areas. Check JR East's website. They serve the Greater Tokyo area. Taxis are good too especially if traveling in small groups.


Lastly, one thing to disregard is the scene in the 1980`s movie, Gung Ho starring Michael Keaton. It shows him staying at a capsule hotel in Tokyo and he is climbing over two guys to reach his bunk on the top. They improved the spacing in the past 20 years.

The Divine Wind Vault
http://divinewindvault.blogspot.com
(C)2006-09

Tuesday, November 10, 2009

CNN International- The Weather forcast in Japan

The music composed for this commercial is really tranquial and takes me back to my days in Japan. Fond memories of this when I was living in Japan and watching TV courtesy of Yahoo broadband from 2006-07. I noticed that there were no Japanese cities listed on this version. Enjoy!





The Divine Wind Vault
http://divinewindvault.blogspot.com
(C)2006-09

Thursday, November 5, 2009

How to say the different types of sushi in Japanese

Saturday, August 26, 2006


In the US there are about 25 different kinds of sushi dishes. If you know of others, please post the name of the dish, the name of the restaurant that it is found and where the restaurant is located.

Here's how to say the different types of sushi in Japanese:

Japanese- English

1. Maguro- Tuna

2. Tako- Octopus

3. Uni- Sea Urchin

4. Temaki- Spicy Tuna Roll

5. Hamachi- Yellow Tail

6. Saba-Mackerel

7. Ikura- Salmon Caviar

8. Tekka Maki- Tuna Roll

9. Ika- Calamari

10. Tamago- Omelet

11. Amaebi- Sweet Shrimp

12. Unagi- Fresh Water Eel

13. Tai- Red Snapper

14. Toro- Marbled Tuna

15. Kappa Maki- Cucumber Roll

16. Hirame- Halibut

17. Anago- Sea Eel

18. Mirugai- Giant Clam

19. Ebi- Shrimp

20. Awabi- Abalone

21. Sake- Salmon

22. N/a- California Roll

23. N/a- Philadelphia Roll


The Divine Wind Vault
http://divinewindvault.blogspot.com
(C)2006-09

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Sightseeing in Japan: Tokyo, Yokohama, Saitama, Gunma, Osaka, Kyoto and Kobe

Japan Summer Travel- July 28-August 7, 2006

Day #1- Arrival at Narita Airport, Friday, July 28th

Nartita airport is about 1 hour by express train from Tokyo. After my mom's 14 hour flight, we paid 3,000 yen and rode the NEX Express Train to Tokyo Station in 30 minutes.

Day #2- Tokyo, Saturday, July 29th

Since my mother had been to Tokyo last year, we just took it easy and visited the Tokyo Dome area and had dinner at Chinzan-so/Four Seasons Hotel. On the way back to Saitama, the train was delayed and at Akabane Station (North Tokyo) we were packed like sardines. Unusual for a weekend, but common during the week.


Day #3- Yokohama Day Trip, Sunday, July 30th

Yokohama has always been fond to me due to my time spent in the Navy at Yokosuka (just south of Yokohama). We went to Chinatown, which is the largest district of Chinese immigrants in Japan. The restaurants are awesome with the best Chinese food without going to China. We had lunch at an authentic Chinese restaurant were the food was served on small dishes and placed on a smaller rotary table that was on the main table.

After seeing the sights in Chinatown, we went to Yamashita Park. The city of San Diego is a sister city of Yokohama and there is a large monument in this park given by San Diego. Here, you can see ships coming and going and the atmosphere is very festive with performers playing music, dancing, etc.

The last place we visited was Landmark Tower (picture). The tower is one of the largest towers in Japan and has a multi-level shopping mall. At the local Hard Rock cafe is a corner dedicated to Van Halen. There is a contracted dated 1979 and signed by all four of the original members.



Day #4- Saitama City, Monday, July 31st

Saitama City is the largest city of Saitama Prefecture, the state due north of Tokyo and houses the Saitama Super Arena (FIBA Basketball Champships are to be hosted next week) (picture), Saitama 2002 Statium (2002 World Cup site and Urawa Red Diamonds home stadium), and the John Lennon Museum. At Saitama Shinoshin Station, we ate at Sushi for Lunch at the local shopping mall. Across the train tracks is the John Lennon Museum. The Beatles are before my time but they were very influncial especially in Japan where English is far from their native language. The museum is very informative and has the actual items on display from the NYC mansion that Lennon last resided at.

Day #5- Leave for Kyoto, Tuesday, August 1st

This was a long day, but a good day because before the sun was up (usually up earlier than back home) we were moving. We took the "Hikari" Bullet Train from Tokyo Station. This bullet train is the 2nd fasted behind the "Nozomi". After arriving in Kyoto, we checked in at New Miyako Hotel, Kyoto. We then bought a 500 yen day bus-pass. We visited the main attractions such as “Gold Temple” (Picture), “Silver Temple”, Yasaka Shrine and Gion/Geishas District on this particular day.






Day #6- Kyoto/Kobe, Wednesday, August 2nd

On the next day, we started early to beat the heat (too darn hot in Kyoto!). We first started with Kiyomizu Temple. On the way I asked some junior high student if classes were in session and they replied in Japanese, "No, but we are going to practice in the swimming club." All dressed up in their uniforms on a hot summer day just to go to swim practice. After Kiyomizu, (waterfall picture) we went shopping for souvenirs. For lunch we had Shrimp tempura (pieces of shrimp about 5-6 inches long lightly breaded) at Kyoto Station, then departed for Kobe.

Kobe is a mid-size city that was made famous in 1995 due to one of the deadliest earthquakes in Japan. It is also known for their Kobe Beef which was previously mentioned. They also have alot of sake and we visited the Hakutsuru Sake Museum. If you new to sake, I suggest "Nigori" sake. It has a milky color and is also known as, "Crazy Milk" in the US. From there, we visted Mt. Rokko via cable car. The view of the city from there was beautiful despite it being a hazy day. Then we returned to the city and went to Sannomiya Station area. It guess you could say it is the heart of Kobe with lots of bright lights and city life going on. Here, we found us a reasonably priced Kobe Beef Dinner fixed by a chef who was the waiter, dishwasher, etc. I guess that's why it was reasonably priced.

Day #7- Osaka, Thursday, August 3rd

This day was totally dedicated to Osaka, Japan's 2nd largest city. The first place on the itenerary was Osaka Castle and Museum. Probably Japan's prettiest castle. Then we headed into town and went had Okonomiyaki for Lunch (Japanese Pizza). Osaka and Hiroshima both call this dish their own. Then we walked over to the entertainment district of Dotonburi/Shinsaibashi. Kirin Plaza (picture) was here.


Day #8- Last day in Kyoto, Friday, August 4th

This was our last day in Kyoto and we finished up our visit at 33 Pillars Temple. The temple is about the length of a football field and had 15 rows of statues held up by 33 temples, thus the name. Due to the place being a place of worship, taking pictures was prohibited. I did get some postcards that portrayed the images seen. Afterwards, we returned to Kyoto Station and rode the bullet train back to Tokyo.


Day #9- Regroup in Saitama, Saturday, August 5th

On this day, we took it easy and did some shopping in the city just north of where we currently live, Urawa. We got some Urawa Red Soccer gear for myself and my dad. Later than night, we saw fireworks from the balcony courtesy of Toda City.


Day #10- Gunma Day-Trip via car, Sunday, August 6th

This past Sunday we rented a van a drove to Gunma. Awesome sites, unusual food (bear meat) but the highlight of the trip was the onsen (hot spring). It was an outdoors facility and as we were walking to the changing room, I noticed women wrapped in yellow towels in the same bathing area with men. Before entering the bathing area I noticed how the men were covering up their privates only with a white hand towel. I followed their lead and bathed for about 15 minutes in the first bathing area. The water was too hot for me. I walked across a bridge with both hands on my waist so the towel would cover my privates. My backside was fully exposed for the whole world to see. The 2nd bathing area was much more tolerable and more of the same. More women wrapped in towels and men holding a hand towel over their privates. Children were also in the bathing area with their parents. Some women did not wrap up in towels but only covered up the front parts. Some men decided to let it all hang out. One notable thing was that the towels on the women become transparent after they stood from soaking. I noticed this from the first bathing area after I held the towel too closely to my body. Definitely a one-of-a-kind experience.

Other highlights of Gunma were shopping in Minakami Station area, watching mountain climbers scale the side of a mountain, sightseeing atTanigawa Dake Ropeway (Cable Car) where there were incredible views on top of the mountain.


For dinner we had takeout from Mos Burgers. A Japanese hamburger chain that has one outlet in Hawaii.

Day #11- Warabi, Saitama, Monday, August 7th

The only thing eventful on this day was dinner at Kappa Sushi. Sushi comes to you on a conveyor belt and all dishes cost 100 yen.


Day #12- Farewell from Japan, Tuesday, August 8th

This day was like Day #1 only in the reverse.

The Divine Wind Vault
http://divinewindvault.blogspot.com
(C)2006-09

Great Journeys in Japan and around Asia Series, Part 4


"Kawaguchi City Little League- Asian and International Champions, Little League World Series Finalist"


Originally published in the Fall 2006 Issue of Saitama MemoRandom An English Quarterly Publication by The Saitama Prefectural Government, International Division,
Saitama City, Urawa Ward, Japan

Kawaguchi Kita Junior High School- This past summer vacation while Japan was glued to their television sets watching Japanese high school baseball competition, a small group of 12 and 13 year old boys from Kawaguchi City, Saitama did what some of us dream to do….travel the world just to play a game.

Kawaguchi Little League of Kawaguchi City, Saitama participated in the Asian Regional Tournament held in Hong Kong, China from July 23-27. All games were played at the fields at Hong Kong Disneyland theme park. Representing Japan, Kawaguchi had a cake walk through this tournament, defeating teams from Taiwan, Hong Kong, Mainland China, Thailand and Korea with a combined score of 43-2. The Little League has a rule that forbids a game to continue once a team is over their opponent by 10 runs.

Due to their success in the Asian Regional Tournament, Kawaguchi continued international play by advancing to the Little League World Series held in Williamsport, Pennsylvania, USA from August 18-27. With all games covered by ESPN, ESPN2, Spanish-language ESPN’s Deportes, and ABC television networks (games were shown in Japan courtesy of J-1 Sports), Asian champs, Kawaguchi Little League continued their winning ways by defeating teams from Russia, Mexico, Curacao, and Saudi Arabia with a combined score of 28-4. This earned them the right to play in the International Championship game where they met Mexico once again. The results from the first meeting were the same as Kawaguchi Little League defeated Mexico 3-0.

The celebration of their International Championship was short lived as the following day, Kawaguchi played against the Southeast representative and United States Champions, Northern Little League All-Stars, of Columbus, Georgia. With a crowd of nearly 5,000 fans on hand Kawaguchi took the lead in the top of the 3rd inning when Kawaguchi’s pitching ace and slugger, Go Matsumoto drove in centerfielder, Seigo Yada. In the bottom of the 3rd inning, Columbus responded with 2-run homer off the bat of catcher, Cody Walker. The remainder of the game was a pitching duel with Matsumoto recording nine strikeouts, and Columbus’ Kyle Carter recording 11 strikeouts. The game ended with the boys from the “City of Cupolas” coming up short by one run. With Columbus in a jubilant mood after their victory, they approached Kawaguchi’s dugout and asked them to go with them to the outfield to pay tribute to the fans. Together both teams jogged around the field waving to their fans.

After the game during the post-game interview, Columbus pitching ace, Carter was quoted as saying, “Matsumoto and I are good friends. We communicate the best we can. Afterwards, he and I are going to play ping-pong.”

Two days before the 2nd term began; Kawaguchi returned home and most likely began preparations for their upcoming sports day festivals. As I entered my 3rd and final year on JET, I started doing my self-introductions at my new school, Kita JHS. When I began telling the students of my travels and then asked, “Has anyone been to America?” It was to my surprise that 1st Year student, Seigo Yada raised his hand. His Japanese Teacher of English told me that he went this summer. I then continued with asking the students if they have been to the places that I’ve been and realized that Yada-kun was the boy I saw on TV who made an Ichiro-like throw from centerfield to get a runner out in the Curacao game. I stopped in mid-sentence and went to Yada-kun and shook his hand and congratulated him for his accomplishments. I then told him that I saw him on TV. He began to blush as his classmate sitting behind him grabbed him by his shoulders. After class, he followed me out of the class where I got him to write his name so I could look him up on the Internet. I did an “American Joke” and said, “Give me your sign!” As we parted ways, he ran back to his room with a big smile while I walked back to the teacher’s room with my heart full of pride.


The Divine Wind Vault
http://divinewindvault.blogspot.com
(C)2006-09

Great Journeys in Japan and around Asia Series, Part 2

"Outstanding Okinawa- Four Perfect Days in the Tropics of Japan"
Originally published in the Spring and Summer 2007 Issues of Saitama MemoRandom An English Quarterly Publication by The Saitama Prefectural Government, International Division, Saitama City, Urawa Ward, Japan

A. Introduction

Mensoure! (Welcome said in Okinawa's indigenous language) My first indication that my wife and I were in for a uniquely Japanese travel experience was when I noticed how slow and low the Japan Airlines 747-400 jumbo jet was moving upon our decent into Okinawa's Naha International Airport. I later learned that this is done due to the large U.S. military presence that occupies Okinawa. To avoid each other, military aircraft conduct operations around Okinawa at the higher altitudes while commercial aircraft fly at the lower altitudes.

Okinawa, the most southern prefecture of Japan's modern-day Kyushu region, is approximately 2.5 hours away from Tokyo's Haneda International Airport. Whereas most destinations in Japan there is the option of using the bullet train (shinkansen) when traveling long distances in Japan, however Okinawa's isolation makes it more unique than the already unique attractions of Japan. In general, most tourists enter Okinawa thru Tokyo's Haneda Airport when entering from mainland Japan.

B. History of Okinawa

Prior to 1372, The Ryukyu Kingdom was an independent entity with its capital on Okinawa Island. Around this time, China took interest in Okinawa and began requiring tribute payments from the Ryukyu Kingdom. This continued until 1609 when a Japanese prince captured the kingdom which forced the kingdom into a dual claim by Japan and China. During Japan's Meiji Restoration in 1879, the dual claim was deemed unacceptable and Japan annexed the Ryukyus. Okinawa's king sent representatives to Beijing asking for protection but to no avail. The US was brought into the mix for diplomatic settlement and President Ulysses S. Grant sided with Japan. The aftermath of this decision brought bloodshed and Okinawan academic subjects and the kingdom's distinct language were forbidden.

In March 1945, a 90-day battle between the American-led Allied Forces and the Empire of Japan began making Okinawa one of the bloodiest battles of World War II's Pacific theater known as "The Typhoon of Steel" (due to the masses of bombs dropped in Okinawa and changing the landscape). Approximately 150,000 lives were lost with half of them being Okinawan (mainly civilian), a quarter being mainland Japanese and the rest being American and other allied forces. Japan's Imperial Navy made one last ditch effort to protect Okinawa by sending its naval centerpiece, the legendary battleship, Yamato. To the Japanese's dismay the ship barely got out of the gates and was sunk in home waters on April 7, 1945. After the Japanese's formal surrender on the American battleship, Missouri, in September of the same year; Okinawa was under the occupation of the US. As a possession of the US, people in Okinawa maintained their national language of Japanese, returned to their ancestral culture and recovered from the effects of the war. Several American military bases were established in Okinawa due to its key location in the Pacific region which brought employment opportunities to the local Okinawan economy. For 27 years, Okinawa remained a possession of the US and the Far East's home of Americana from halfway around the world by giving the American GIs a taste of home such as the legendary diner and soft drink maker, A&W. The franchise exists in Okinawa today. Also, during the American occupation, vehicle traffic moved as it did in the US with cars moving on the right and the driver sitting on the left of the car. In mainland Japan it has always been the opposite. In 1972, Okinawa was returned to Japan with the understanding that the American bases would still be in Okinawa. Today, with 100% of its financial backing coming from the Japanese government, nearly 75% of the American military that is stationed in Japan is found in Okinawa. The issue of why and how many American service members stationed in Okinawa has always been a hot topic to debate.

Today, Okinawa has flourished as the once long, lost cousin of mainland Japan. Under control of Japan, Okinawa provides the "Land of the Rising Sun" with its most unique culture, Japan's only tropical geography while at the same time being fully recognized as Japan's most southern prefecture and part of the Kyushu Island region. As Japan's mecca of tourism for mainland Japanese, Okinawa is the gem that has weathered the test of time maintaining a blend of Chinese, Japanese and American cultures.

C. Main Destination- Naha

The Kuriyushi Hotel is located off of Naha's International Street (Kokusai Douri) and conveniently located near the Naha Central Bus Depot and Naha's monorail system. The Kuriyushi chain has a total of three facilities throughout Okinawa with the other two facilities being luxury resorts with an oceanfront view. The downtown facility is a 3-star "Japanese Business Hotel" and has been the best hotel that I've stayed at in all of my travels throughout Japan. This hotel was available at a very reasonable price and provided a breakfast buffet, standard lodging on the spacious side with two twin-size beds, (I still haven't figured out why married couples without children can't sleep in the same bed while visiting a hotel in Japan), and TV with pay channel options. The top two floors are reserved for public bathing (sento) in addition to the shower in our room. Since the men's bathing area was on the top floor, it was refreshing to bathe under the stars and tropic sea breeze with the rumble of Naha's nightlife beneath me.

Since August 2003, Okinawa has joined the rest of mainland Japan with trains as mass transportation with their monorail system. This monorail starts at Naha Airport at the most southern end and goes north to the rebuilt Shuri Shine. The greater Naha area has an elaborate and colorful bus system that picks up where the monorail leaves off. For example, in Saitama Prefecture the main bus system has the green and white (Koukusai Kougyo) bus while in Naha, there were a dozen different buses ranging in colors and companies. One disappointing aspect of getting around Naha was not necessarily the long waits at bus stops which are to be expected but the "hustling" from the taxi drivers. Throughout our stay in Naha, we must have been approached half a dozen times by taxi drivers that were waiting by the bus terminal, driving by and approaching us as we waited at the bus stop offering to take us to where we wanted to go at a higher price that the bus claiming that the bus was too slow. This is another indication that Okinawa is a unique kind of place in Japan.

If your travel plans require venturing off to Okinawa's north or one of the many scattered and unscathed isolated islands, there are ship and air services that specialize in these destinations. Also, if you have a Japanese driver's license or an international driver's license, renting a car is another good option. Unlike the metro Tokyo area, the roads in Okinawa are spacious with adequate parking available outside of Naha.

D. Must see places in Naha

International Street (Koukusai Douri) - The heartbeat of Naha, many restaurants (please see the "Must dine section" listed at the end of this article) as well as shopping centers and tourist gift shops (omiyagiya). The night life on International Street is always bustling with clubs, bars, and cheap eateries open until the early hours of the morning.

Shuri Shine- The equivalent of the Emperor's Palace in Tokyo, Shuri Shine was the home of the king of the Ryukyu Kingdom. It has the message posted at its entry, "Rejecting all weapons, the Ryukyuans welcomed all who come to their shores with heartfelt sincerity and the utmost courtesy." The message sums up the Okinawan culture from long ago and how it has overcome its turbulent and troublesome history.

Tamaudon burial site- Near the Shuri Shrine, the Tamaudon burial site displays the ancient ritual of how the Okinawans prepared the deceased. Unlike the custom of cremating as it is done in mainland Japan, in olden times, the Okinawans prepared the deceased by leaving them in a special room where they basically became a skeleton. Afterwards, their remains were placed in large bowls then placed in tombs.

Near the burial site was a very picturesque place with a cobbled road leading to a main road down a curvy hill. In 2002, there was a NHK drama, Churasan which was filmed in this area.

Himeyuri no tou Museum- This was an all-girls school that later became a nursing school in the latter part of the Asian-Pacific War. Pictures were forbidden inside the museum but outside the museum the locals claim that in the pictures, ghost can be seen due to all of the lives lost at the school and in Okinawa during the 1945 "Battle of Okinawa".

Peace Memorial Tower (Heiwakinendo)- This museum picked up where Himeyuri left off by displaying stone walls with the names of the Okinawan, Japanese, American, British, Korean and others who perished in the "Battle of Okinawa". The area allotted for these stone walls was equivalent to the size of about three soccer fields. This place was a combination of beauty and sorrow.

Located next to the ocean with the Peace Memorial Tower, the Okinawan Prefecture Memorial Museum is on a hill overlooking the ocean and next to the Korean monument with windmills in the background. This was the only battle fought on Japanese soil forcing civilians as young as junior high school students into battle (boys were soldiers while girls were nurses).

Japanese Navy Underground Headquarters- During the "Battle of Okinawa", the Imperial Japanese Navy was forced into an underground location where naval operations were conducted. As a veteran of the US Navy, I felt like I was onboard an American warship only underground.

E. Day-tripping from Naha (courtesy of Okinawa Bus tours)- (Their office is located near the Naha Central Bus Depot.)

Okinawa's South China Sea- After originating from Naha's Central Bus Depot area, our bus tour took us north to Okinawa's South China Sea. Route 331 to Route 329 is a beach route which allows views of the ocean the entire time while driving by luxury hotel resorts thru the coastal towns of Urasoe (the original capital of the Ryukyu Kingdom) and Kadena (home of the US Air Force in Okinawa) among other coastal cities. The bus made two stops on the way where we were able to get out and take pictures of the beautiful ocean scenery in particular at Manzamou. I highly recommend stopping there. After our last stop, we ate a lunchbox (bento) and then continued on to the next place.

The Okinawa Ocean Expo Park and Aquarium, aka The Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, is a four-story complex featuring a variety of displays. One can see huge whale sharks, living corrals, colorful tropical fish and a dolphin's lagoon. The mascot of the aquarium is "Okichan". This is a humorous and dynamic performance of a group of dolphins that rival "Shamu" of Sea World in San Diego, California. After taking a leisurely stroll on the white powder beach next to the crystal blue waters, we returned to the bus and continued on to the next place.

Situated near the Kadena's US Air Force Base, the Southeast Botanical Gardens offers four different programs. These programs range from "Frolic & Fun" to "Quiet and Tranquil Walks" to "Bask in the Resort Atmosphere" and "Encounter the Power of Nature". After experiencing the tropical vegetation up close, we returned to the bus where we continued on to the last stop before returning to Naha.

Located in Okinawa City, Plaza House Shopping Center is one of the oldest shopping malls in Okinawa since being established in 1954. The plaza offers many different shops ranging from an international grocery store, to a bookstore specializing in Western books and newspapers, and various restaurants. It literally felt like I was at a strip mall on Main Street, USA with spacious parking lots with car parking in a diagonal fashion.

F. Must dine places in Okinawa

Okinawans are arguably one of the healthiest people in the world. Experts suggest that the abundance of the homegrown sea vegetable, Mozuku coupled by the dieting philosophy, "Filling the stomach only to 80%" is the reason for the largest numbers of centenarians. Due to Okinawa's history and slight disconnection from mainland Japan, Okinawa also provides some unique eateries ranging from local, fusion and international.

Billed as the All-American diner, A&W initially took off in California during the early 1900s as a root beer maker. A short time later, A&W became a full service enterprise selling burgers, hot dogs, sundaes in addition to root beer. After World War II, A&W expanded into Okinawa to satisfy the appetites of the young and hungry American GIs who were working on the various military instillations throughout Okinawa. Today, A&W has become a permanent fixture of Okinawa satisfying the locals with old-fashioned American-style hamburgers and frosty root beer floats.

On Naha's International Street was a quaint and bustling Japanese pub (izakaya), Yunangii featuring Okinawan dishes. After a moderate wait and resorting to one of the low-tables in the front section on the restaurant, my wife and I sat snuggly on the floor and dined on items such as Goya (the bitter green vegetable that resembles a prickly cucumber); mozuku (the slippery seaweed that is served in ponzu sauce); soki soba (Okinawan soba that is a bit thicker than it's Tokyo equivalent) that was used in a yakisoba dish; mimiga (pig's ear), fuchanpuru ( various vegetables sauteed into a breadlike sticky but dry mixture), buta no kakuni (the tender part of a pig that is cut into cubes and simmered in a miso-based special sauce and when eaten melts in your mouth), Sanpincha (Okinawan tea that is a mix of green and jasmine teas). Instead of miso soup, we were served a clear soup. In general, Okinawan dishes have a vinegar-based flavor whereas Japanese dishes have a soy-based flavor. Of course a few bottles of Orion (The Okinawan draft beer) were consumed as well.

If anyone has eaten at a non-sushi Japanese restaurant in the US, I'm sure that they were dazzled with acrobatic knife tossing and amazed by watching a stack of onions releasing liquids like a volcano. These places like Benihana's may be long on entertainment value but are often short on authentic Japanese cuisine which may get by with the average American wanting to take someone out for their birthday. After spending my first six months in the Kanto Plain region and not seeing one of these places, I came to the conclusion that this method of roasting seafood and vegetables on a large iron plate (teppan) was a myth and the style in the US was a watered-down version of the original that no longer existed. However, on Naha's International Street, we enjoyed a delicious lunch at a Hawaiian-Japanese teppanyaki restaurant where the entertainment matched the excellent food. Now, I can take back every bad thing that I ever thought about the Japanese restaurants in my hometown.

Next, imagine a collision between the bakery chain found at most train stations in Saitama known as Little Mermaid and the American steakhouse chain, The Sizzler. Once the smoke settled and dust cleared, you would get Jimmy's of Okinawa. This Okinawan chain features a bakery that prepares loaves of bread that are more than three slices per bag among other bakery items experienced when I visited Hawaii. There is also an American-style steakhouse buffet, department store selling Okinawan traditional clothes and an international grocery store featuring several products distributed by Costco Japan.

There is an Okinawan hamburger chain, Jef Drive-in Restaurant, which reminded me of what a local version of McDonald's would be. Here, we were served unique dishes such as a Goya Burger (Okinawa's bitter vegetable sauteed with eggs), Pork Sandwich (bears a slight resemblance of to a nikuman (a Chinese/Japanese dish of a biscuit/roll with meat inside) and an American-style BBQ sandwich), and deep-fried apple pies.

G. Special tidbits to know about Okinawa

The world's largest number of centenarians (people 100 years of age and older) are found in Okinawa. Although the average Okinawan eats more meals in a day compared to Americans, the average Okinawan is healthier and lives a longer life. Some Japanese cuisine enthusiast in the US suggest that the abundant amounts of the ocean vegetable found in the seas surrounding Okinawa, Mozuku (a kind of seaweed considered a delicacy when seasoned with vinegar or ponzu sauce) is a source of longevity.

A dieting philosophy that recently made its way into mainstream American media that arguably came from Okinawa is "Filling the stomach to only 80%" (Hara Hachi Bun Me). Again, Japanese cuisine enthusiasts in the US suggest this method of eating is another reason for Okinawans' longevity.

Orion Draft Beer is the only beer made in Okinawa and is a rare find in mainland Japan. Orion’s crisp and refreshing taste is a perfect fit for Okinawa's tropical climate and casual lifestyle.

Something very beneficial to have known back in my single days in Japan is the Okinawan traditional dress for women. For example, if a Okinawan woman wears a flower on her left side, it means that she has a sweetheart (koibito), whereas if she wears the flower on the right side, it means that she is looking for a sweetheart. This is something that is similar to what you may have seen in Hawaii.

In mainland Japan, vehicle license plates have a hiragana character on their license plate. In Okinawa, American military personnel have a "Y" in the place of a hiragana character on their license plate. The reason for this allows easier access for their vehicles to enter the various American military bases and Japanese-funded military housing in Okinawa.

One souvenir found at stores on Naha's International Street are large bottles of sake containing a snake. These items range in sizes and prices. One bottle was spotted with a JPY136,500 ($130.00) price tag.

H. Recap- How to get there, where to stay and getting around

Travel Agency- Cochan Travel

http://www.tour.ne.jp/ (Japanese only)

Airline- Japan Airlines (Northwest Airlines are able to get frequent flyers miles when flying within Japan. Please check www.nwa.com for details.)

Lodging- The Kuriyushi Hotel located off of Naha’s International Street.

Transportation- Monorail, bus, taxi and Okinawa Bus Tours

Roundtrip airfare on Japan Airlines from Haneda to Naha, three nights at the Kuriyushi Hotel on International Street in Naha with a daily breakfast buffet went for reasonable price of (JPY34, 000) per person. An additional JPY5, 000 per person was spent on the bus tour courtesy of Okinawa Bus Tours which included a guided tour in Japanese, bento, passes into the aquarium and botanical gardens. Reservations for the bus tour were made on the morning of the tour but it is recommended that you book your bus tour in advance.

Daniel J. Stone and his wife, Mayuko, fled Saitama, Japan for one tropical Christmas in Okinawa and makes his seventh and final contribution to the Saitama MemoRandom. He has been a contributor since 2004.


The Divine Wind Vault
http://divinewindvault.blogspot.com
(C)2006-09

Great Journeys in Japan and around Asia Series, Part 1

"I was Attacked (by Yoko Ono) at the Train Station"

Originally published in the Fall 2004 Issue of Saitama MemoRandom An English Quarterly Publication by the Saitama Prefectural Government, International Division, Saitama City, Urawa Ward, Japan

Warabi Station, Saitama- I was attacked at the train station! Actually, I was not, but being a foreigner in Japan is like being a celebrity. Recently, I read where guitarist, Edward Van Halen, was pestered by a persisting fan who wanted his autograph at a backstage visit by a few hundred lucky fans. He replied very sadly, "If I give one to you, I will have to give one to everyone." However, if you are a foreigner in Japan, it is most assuredly that you have experienced some interesting moments.

Along with these experiences, you probably have been stared at constantly by an old woman at the train station or have children run up to you while you are waiting for the train and yell, "Hello!". As a former resident of Los Angeles for almost five years, I laugh at the thought of being considered a celebrity since every celebrity that I ever came across was about as real as pro wrestling. Furthermore, I pity the AET (that redhead Irishman) who thinks just because people in Japan treat them with immediate respect and recognition is in the same league at the great Edward Van Halen.

But what happened to me was unbelievable. I'm returning home by train one rainy Sunday afternoon and realize that my train card is about out. As I’m pulling my wallet out to put 10,000 yen on it, I have a Japanese woman tap me on my shoulder and mumble something in Japanese. This surprises me and I look to my wife. The woman who tapped me, start talking in fluent English, "Where are you from?" I reply, "America." Then she starts talking to me a million words a minute. Her English is very good, but I’m trying to get my train card ready, get home and out of my wet clothes. I hear her mention about going to but not graduating from a college in the US, then she talking about her professor having an affair with one of his students. Before you know it, my wife, who is disturbed by this babbling woman, has only put 1000 yen on my Suica card. I catch this and have my wife get the change back and this woman is still talking. Finally, my wife gives me my change and my card. I’m getting frustrated because I have this crazy person talking to me and keeping me from getting my Suica card the way I want it. I look behind me, and notice a line of people waiting to buy a ticket, and one old woman tells the woman in Japanese, "You need to talk to him later." Finally my wife and I start to walk away from the Suica machine and this woman is still talking. My wife says, "Do you know her?" I exclaim, "No, I don’t know her …" Finally, the woman realizes that she is bothering me and says, "I’m sorry if I caused you any trouble. I like to talk to people and wanted to talk." She disappears; I stop since my brain can not quite grasp what has just happened. I'm trying to add money to my Suica card and now I have been made into a spectacle over a conversation which I only said "America" to a stranger that is a borderline mental case. My wife, who is Japanese, is angry with me for not telling her to get lost. I notice a few people staring at me.

Anyway, I return to the machine and am determined to get my Suica card loaded up with enough money to last a while. On the walk back to the apartment, my wife tells me that the woman asked in Japanese before she started in with the English, "Are you lost?" or something along those lines.

The moral of the story is, you may get treated like a celebrity and will get stared at out in public. If you ever get a verbal attack like I did, do like Edward Van Halen did. Tell them that if you have to talk to her, you have to talk to everyone. Don't forget to keep things in perspective in regards to your new so-called celebrity status.

The Divine Wind Vault
http://divinewindvault.blogspot.com
(C)2006-09